Trap mesh not easily lifted off/ replaced

Hi there,
We have just set up about 30 traps in trap boxes that we built ourselves. Just the standard trap box design to house a Victor or T rex trap. They went in in July and we are already having problems with some of the mesh being difficult to lift up and push down to check/ clear the trap. It could be that the mesh bends a bit over time? It’s stainless-steel strong mesh. Should we be building in more or a buffer, e.g. smaller piece of mesh or larger route gaps? Any advice on this? It adds to the time it takes to check our traps.

Try using a toothbrush to clean out the mesh slots, because debris adds up. Under the Totara on my place, it takes no time for the needles to accumulate, along with dust, pollen, bark fragments, and small pieces of leaves.

The most likely reason for your troubles, is that the wood has warped. Take a ruler with you next time you check your traps, to determine if the space between the slots has changed. Plywood is less prone to warping than timber.

I hope you manage to fix things. Keep up the good work!

In my observation the wood expands and contracts as it dries out/absorbs water. I agree, make the grooves a bit deeper or make tunnels with a hinged mesh door instead (my preference). Cheers.

Thanks for this, I will bring a ruler along

Thanks Dan. I might see if i can take a tool to do this in the field

I agree the wood expands and contracts so more clearance required so deeper groove where mesh slides.The skinier S/S mesh also more likely to bind on sides
A square edge rasp works. One that has the raspy bits on the edge as well
Can buy them cheap from mitre 10 or the likes.
I suggest if you build more boxes that you attend to this groove depth at contruction.
We have Kea so we can’t use that opening option